MONTECITO PIZZA... AND MORE
New Kid on the Block: Ospi. (Plus a Second Chance for Clark's)
Ospi (1801 E. Cabrillo—opposite the Bird Sanctuary)
Busy, busy, busy on its first weekend.
Santa Barbara is renowned for its locals swarming any new restaurant. But that early buzz doesn’t always last.
The real test: Who’s coming back to keep it booming many months from now?
My early take (mindful they’re cutting their teeth): Considering what is already available elsewhere… much ado about mediocre.
Montecito is experiencing a renaissance with more than a handful of new restaurant openings (or new restaurants replacing former restaurants).
Is there enough business to go round?
Probably. This is partly because Santa Barbarians who once stuck to State Street and its environs now stray to trendy Coast Village Road.
About the pizza: Ospi’s version is… forgettable, frankly.
When the cheese too easily separates from a paper-thin crust, you’re not winning any prizes.
Give me a slice from Patsy D’Amore’s at LA’s Original Farmer’s Market any day.
But let’s compare other Montecito pizza:
Bettina: Good—but pepperoni heavy while stingy with the mozzarella.
Best pizza in Montecito?
No contest: Ca’Dario. (1187 Coast Village Road)
Osip’s vibe centers on a chic 17-stool horseshoe bar.
But two problems:
The gin selection is woefully sparse. No Sipsmith, no Botanist, not even Plymouth.
My Negroni was a fat finger shy of a normal-size martini glass. (Wine pours are also scant.)
Beyond the bar, the dining area squeezes patrons like they’re seated in the first-class cabin of a jumbo jet—tight, impersonal.
Was thinking about booking for Mother’s Day.
But…
Instead, I’ll return in about a month, give it another shot, pasta next time.
And speaking of revisits…
Clark’s Oyster Bar (1212 Coast Village Road)
Every place deserves a second chance.
Last time at Clark’s, I walked out after ten minutes because no server appeared to take an order—or even say hey, be right with you.
So, not taking any chances this time, I nail a stool at the bar, order an Evening Prayer. Always add a couple dashes of orange bitters to a Vesper, it gives Bond’s favorite tipple a little sunshine. Speaking of which, Fleming got it wrong: Stir, don’t shake. (Only cocktails with cream or citrus should be shaken.)
Ryan the bartender gets it right—he stirs and patiently allows gin, vodka, Lillet (and orange bitters) to sit with ice cubes in a pitcher for a while. Extra chill, some dilution. Otherwise it’s like injecting a vein with pure alcohol.
Clam chowder: A twist. Different. Less Massachusetts, more Baja. Spicy. Works for me.
Wedge salad: Proper balance of flavors. (Tip: Order the buttermilk dressing on the side because they tend to drench.)
Rockfish: This is their signature dish—a favorite in Aspen—served over grits with a tangy sauce. I don’t typically gravitate to rockfish but… I’ll be back for more.
I may be harsh in my assessments but I’m forgiving, if no less discriminating.