RESTAURANT REVIEWS: A TALE OF TWO VILLAGES
And a Return to Jill's Place
Pane e Vino (Upper Village, Montecito)
The migration of Angelenos northward continues—driven by fire damage, sluggish permitting to rebuild (despite Dem leadership promises of a fast track), and ICE "protests" (vandalism, looting, and assault on police officers).
But here’s the good news: it takes newcomers a while to realize there is more to Montecito than Coast Village Road (CVR) in the Lower Village.
There’s also the Upper Village, where old-timers gather to avoid the congestion.
Nestled into that quieter zone is a quaint trattoria that’s been around for over 40 years: Pane e Vino.
I returned recently after a long absence—and spotted faces I hadn’t seen in years: folks I thought had moved away. More likely, they rarely venture down to CVR, weary of seeing their hometown overrun by the new rude.
And I caught few ghosts, particularly, Thom Steinbeck (son of John), miss him.
The restaurant sits a tiara’s toss (to quote Richard Mineards) from the SY pharmacy/Montecito Coffee Shop where Robert Mitchum, Stewart Granger and their chums once shot the breeze; long gone, but not forgotten. The days when Hollyweird was real.
Now this quiet corner is reportedly coveted by Rosewood Miramar Hotel owner Rick Caruso, rumored to be eyeing it for a high-end retail village—say, The Grove meets Rodeo Drive: Gucci, Wucci & Pucci.
As the Bob Dylan song goes: The times they are a-changin’.
Jill’s Place (Santa Barbara Avenue, SB)
Truth is, I missed their potato skins—loaded with cheese, bacon, onion; ranch dressing—and their cheese-stuffed, bacon-wrapped jalapeños.
So, cravings in tow, I gave Jill’s another shot—after last month’s Negroni debacle led me to a hasty exit ramp.
This time? Redemption.
A seasoned bartender named Rick delivered a perfect Negroni.
By perfect, I mean: Never free-pour a Negroni. It must be a precise 1:1:1 blend—gin (preferably Sipsmith, The Botanist, or Plymouth), Campari, and sweet vermouth (Cocchi or Antica, ideally). Stirred, not shaken. An orange twist. For me, served up.
Thereafter, the skins, jalapeños and lobster tail (from New Zealand) were superb.
A little tip for the uninitiated:
Jill Place’s is a spinoff of Shaloobs, Santa Barbara’s old-time butcher.
I’m told Shaloob’s supplies beef to Lucky’s in Montecito on Coast Village Road, where a 7 oz filet mignon will set you back $62. If you want sides, they’re extra, starting at $16 apiece.
At Jill’s, the same cut of meat is $48… and accompanied by pea soup, salad, sautéed vegetables, rice pilaf and garlic bread!