Situated in southern Oregon’s Rogue Valley, Ashland (for me) was never meant to be more than a convenient overnight stop on the way up (and maybe back down) to Bend and Portland.
So what a surprise that this town turns out to be the highlight of our Pacific Northwest road trip.
In addition to its natural beauty—cherry blossoms now blossoming and colorful foliage in the fall—Ashland has both culture (its iconic Shakespeare Festival, three theaters in town) and youthful vibrance (courtesy of the University of Southern Oregon and Ashland University).
Characters and individuality abound (including all the tie-dye left over from the ‘60s).
I was going to keep the following to myself rather than give it up, but this peaceful community with its pastoral views and misty hillsides is made all the more wonderful by a Bed & Breakfast called Country Willows, set away from town, dark at night and oh so quiet.
Case Coffee Shop down Siskiyou Boulevard roasts its own beans on the premises and is a fine way to meet the morn.
The town itself bustles with one-off shops and boutiques. But my preference is basking in the serenity of Country Willows Inn and cuddling up with the hearth for catch-up on the contents of my book bag.
When cocktail hour arrives, after a long sudsy soak in the Jacuzzi, numerous options present themselves.
But for me, this sign over the entrance stands out above all: Welcome Adventurers.
Once inside Oberon’s, on North Main Street alongside Downtown Plaza (photo top of page), one discovers “Ashland’s Most Ashlandiest Spot.”
And to seal the deal, their effervescent bartender most certainly personifies that Ashlandiest spirit.
But the best thing about Oberon’s: Their unbelievably grand collection of rare whiskies, especially bourbon, of which they are justly proud.
My usual go-to is Michter’s due to its high corn content. I tell this to the barkeep and ask him, knowing my preference, what rare bottle he would puzzle over to better it.
The solution…
Smooth, oh so smooth.
Leading to my inability to resist their…
And, yes, it truly is the best damn Old Fashioned.
Dinner, thereafter, is an Italian so discreetly tucked away it would better befit an intelligence service.
Osteria La Briccola is truly a hidden gem—not rough-cut but smoothed and polished to perfection.
When I lived briefly on the Jersey Shore in the late 1970s, there was a restaurant in West End (part of Long Branch) called Ilvento’s. It rivaled anything served in NYC’s Little Italy.
Osteria is better.
Their pasta is hand-made on the premises. Choose from a variety on offer along with your sauce of choice.
So how about a Tagliatelle with Pomodoro and a sprinkle of Parmesan?
Simply sublime. The best I ever had—and that includes fine dining experiences in Rome, Florence, Venice, Milan and elsewhere in Italy.
And their Zuppa di Pesce (aka cioppino)?
Before this day, the Tadich Grill in San Francisco took the prize with their signature fish stew (originated by Italian fishermen in nearby Sausalito).
It is worth visiting Ashland for this restaurant alone.
But combined with this town’s natural beauty?
I’ll be back soon.